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A modern-day corset, Vicky won't give you a wasp waist, but she can be worn at home or out on the town. Sizing is variable based on the wearer's ribcage measurement and cup size. Knit in one piece, Vicky gets her slinky shape through use of varied pattern stitches and short rows. She can be lacy for the traditionalist, streamlined edges for the minimalist, or faux fur for fun!

photos: Emma Crew [top/red] Rebecca Spainhower [bottom/peach]
SIZE

Knit to fit the wearer's measurements.

Measure in inches around rib cage directly under the breasts (where bra band rests -- note this is not the same number as bra size). Subtract 3 from this measurement, we will call that number X. You will also need to know the wearer's bra cup size.

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Length: 9 inches plus trim.
 

MATERIALS

[MC] Cascade Sierra [80% pima cotton, 20% wool; 191 yds per 100g skein];
Red version: color #39/Peach version: color #04; 2 hanks for sizes up to 39" ribcage without lace edging, 3 skeins for larger sizes and/or if using lace edging.
[CC] (faux fur version only) Lion Brand Fun Fur [100% polyester; 60 yds per 50 g ball];
color: champagne #124; 1 ball

2 US #7/4.5mm 20-24" circular needles
1 US #2.5/3mm 24" [or longer for larger sizes] circular needle
10 inch length hook-and-eye tapes OR grosgrain ribbon to match yarn color and 15-20 hook-and-eye sets.
Sewing thread to match yarn.
1 inch wide elastic, length to fit around wearer (optional).
2-3 yards satin ribbon (optional).
Tapestry needle, sewing needle.

 
GAUGE

24 sts/40 rows = 4" in linen stitch on larger needles
28 sts/36 rows = 4" in k1, p1 rib (not stretched) on smaller needles
 
DIRECTIONS

If planning a lace edging at the bottom of the garment, use a provisional cast on.
If planning a plain edge, use a tubular cast on for a more polished look, or choose your own favorite cast on method.

With smaller needles, CO 6 multiplied by X plus 3 sts. [for value of "X", see SIZE instructions above.]

Row 1 (RS): K2, *p1, k1, rep from * to last st, slip last st kwise with yarn in front.
Row 2: *k1, p1, rep from * to last st, slip last st kwise with yarn in front.
Rep these two rows until piece measures 3 inches or desired length from lower edge to bottom of rib cage. End with RS facing.
Divide sts into thirds: pm after (2 multiplied by X plus 1) sts and second marker after (4 multiplied by X plus 2) sts. From this point the piece will be worked on three needles in two different sizes. The two outer portions will be in linen stitch with selvege sts on larger needles while the central section continues in k1, p1 rib on smaller needles.

Continue as follows [see image at right]:
Row 1a(RS): With larger needle, k2, *sl 1 wyif, k1, rep from * to first marker. With smaller needle, work in rib patt as est. With second larger needle, *sl 1 wyif, k1, rep from * to last st, slip last st kwise wyif.
Row 2a: With larger needle, k1, p2, *sl 1 wyib, p1, rep from * to marker. With smaller needle, work in rib patt as est. With second larger needle: *p1, sl 1 wyib, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, sl last st kwise wyif.
Rep these two rows until piece measures 6 inches or desired length from lower edge to "bra band" line. End with RS facing.
PM after (X plus 1) sts on the first needle, and before the last (X plus 1) sts on the last needle. From this point the piece will be worked in panels of st st, linen st, 1x1 rib, linen st and st st. Continue selvedge stitches.
Row 1b(RS): With larger needle, k to first marker. Work linen st as est to end of first needle. Work middle section in k1, p1 rib on smaller needle as est. With second larger needle, work in linen stitch as est to last marker, k to last st, slip last st kwise wyif.
Row 2b: With larger needle, k1 then p to first marker. Work linen st as est to end of needle. Work rib as est across smaller needle. With second larger needle, work linen st as est to last marker, p to last st, slip last st kwise wyif.
Rep these two rows for 1 inch.

For A cup, skip to ***
For B cup and larger, work short row shaping as foll:
Continue to work selvedge st as est throughout.
Step 1: K to 1 st before marker. Turn. With yarn in back, insert right needle into first st as if to purl, bring yarn forward and work to end of row. This will make a YO at the short row turning point.

For B cup, skip to **
For all other sizes, continue:
Step 2: K to 2 sts before YO. Turn. Make YO as before, and work to 2 sts before end of row. Turn. Make YO by bringing yarn forward before continuing with next step.
Step 3: K to 2 sts before newest YO on left needle. Turn. Make YO as before. Work to YO.
Purl YO tog with next st. Work selvedge st as est.

For C cup, skip to **
For D cup, rep steps 2-3 once more.
**K to first YO. K following st tog with YO. *k1, k2 tog, rep from * to marker.
Work across rem sections in patt as est.
Reverse short row shaping for left side.

***Continue to work alternating rows 1b and 2b as est until piece measures 8 inches or desired length from beg (measure over linen stitch areas). End with RS facing.
Transfer all stitches to smaller needle and work in k1, p1 rib with selvedge sts as at beginning (rows 1 and 2) for 1 inch.

For plain edge:
BO all sts using grafted BO.

For fun fur edging:
Join CC and k to (X plus 1) sts on larger needles (that is, above the area that was st st). Turn. K to end. Bind off CC only. Change to MC and work grafted BO across (4 multiplied by X plus 1) sts. Change to CC and k rem (X plus 1) sts on larger needles. K one more row on these sts, then BO in CC.

For lace edgings:
Edgings are knit lengthwise and joined to the edge of the garment as they are made. When directed to p2tog, purl together one stitch from the edging and one stitch from the body of the garment. Use smaller needle.

Small lace pattern (for upper edges):
CO 1 additional st at beg of row. K2, turn.
Row 1: K1, yo, k1.
Row 2: K1, (k and p into yo), p2tog.
Row 3: K4.
Row 4: BO 2 sts, p2tog.
Rep these four rows until you reach the last st above the st st panel. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for working grafted bind off. Work grafted bindoff until you reach the stitch above the last st st panel. Rejoin yarn and rep small lace pattern. Remove prov CO and transfer all stitches to smaller needle.

Large lace pattern (for lower edge):
Starting at left front corner with right side facing, k first st of garment and CO 3 additional sts. K4, turn.
Row 1: K1, yo, k2, yo, k1.
Row 2: K1, (k and p into yo), k2, (k and p into yo), p2tog.
Row 3: K8.
Row 4: BO 4 sts, k2, p2tog.
Rep these 4 rows until last st is reached; BO.

Front bands:
Using larger needles, pick up one st in each selvedge st along one front edge. Work 3 rows in garter st or seed st. BO all sts. Rep for other side.
 
FINISHING

Press lace edgings with a steam iron. Do not stretch ribbing. Weave in all ends.

If using hook-and-eye tape, cut 1/2 inch longer than front bands. Turn both ends under by 1/2 inch and stitch to inside of front bands using matching sewing thread. You can also make your own hook and eye tape using grosgrain ribbon and individual hooks and eyes. Cut ribbon 1/2 inch longer than front bands and turn down each end by 1/2 inch, sew ends in place. Sew matching sets of hooks and eyes along ribbon, spaced every 3/4 inch. Sew ribbon to inside of front bands. If desired, thread satin ribbon through eyelets in lace edgings.

Adding elastic is optional, but will help the garment fit more securely. Wrap elastic around ribcage where bra band rests, it should be stretched so as to be snug but still comfortable. Cut elastic to desired length and remove 1 inch. Pin elastic to inside of garment so that the upper edge of the elastic is just below the beginning of the st st sections and ends of elastic are connected to hook and eye tape. With yarn, hand sew a wide zig-zag to enclose the elastic, catching the inside of the garment each time.

Pattern notes:

  • If you prefer a lace-up style over hooks and eyes, pick up stitches for front bands using smaller needle and work small lace pattern in place of front bands. Thread lacing through eyelet holes.
  • Cup sizes larger than C may find they require additional support beneath the garment. I am experimenting with underwires from an old bra. A strapless bra would be the easiest solution.
  • Can be made to fit cup sizes larger than D using additional short rows. For example, I worked six sets of short rows two times to fit an E-F cup.